To get your car ready for its end-of-lease inspection, start 10-12 weeks before collection: wash and dry the car, appraise every panel in good daylight against the BVRLA Fair Wear and Tear Standard, repair anything outside those limits through a professional repairer, and have all keys, the service record and the handbook ready. This guide walks through the checks, the acceptable damage limits, and how to decide whether to repair or accept the charge.
Wash the car and let it dry, then appraise it in good daylight roughly 10-12 weeks before collection. Check every panel, wheel, tyre and seat against the BVRLA Fair Wear and Tear Standard, repair anything outside it through a professional repairer, and have all keys, the service record and the handbook ready.
Wash the car and let it dry completely, park it somewhere with good natural light and at least a couple of metres of clear space, then work round it panel by panel against the BVRLA Fair Wear and Tear Standard. Fix what falls outside the limits, empty the car, and gather every key and document.
That's the whole job, in order:
Be honest with yourself when you do the appraisal. Ask someone else to look too - after three or four years you've stopped seeing the kerbed alloy on the nearside front. The inspector hasn't.
Ten to twelve weeks before your collection date. That's the window the BVRLA recommends, and it exists for a practical reason: body shops and mobile repair specialists get booked up, parts take time, and a rushed repair done badly costs more to put right than the original damage.
Two months out is when you should be doing the full appraisal and booking anything that needs doing. It's also the point to decide what happens next, because your options - hand back and walk away, take a new car, or look at whether you can buy the car at the end of the lease - all have different lead times. Our guide to what your options are at the end covers the choices in full.
One more diary note: check your service schedule. If a service falls due before collection, get it done and stamped. A missed service is one of the few things you can't fix retrospectively, and funders do notice.
An independent inspector appraises the bodywork panel by panel, the glass, lamps, wheels and tyres, the interior trim and upholstery, the electrics and driver assistance systems, the service record, and the keys and equipment. They record everything on a condition report with photographs. Expect it to take around an hour.
Every panel, plus bumpers, mirrors, sills, the roof and the swage line - the raised styling crease running along the flank of most cars. Damage on a swage line or the roof is treated more strictly because it's harder to repair invisibly.
Tread depth and even wear across each tyre, sidewall condition, kerb scuffs on rims and trims, and whether the spare, jack or inflation kit is present and working.
Upholstery for tears, burns, stains and odours, carpets and boot lining, and every control - audio, climate, parking sensors, cameras and driver assistance systems all need to work.
Two things sit slightly outside the damage assessment but matter just as much. First, the car must be roadworthy and capable of passing an MOT, with no dashboard warning lights. If it isn't, the collection can be aborted and you'll likely be charged for a wasted visit. Second, mileage is read at collection and any excess is billed separately at your contracted excess mileage rate - preparation won't change that number, but knowing it in advance stops the invoice being a shock. The lease return process, step by step guide sets out how collection and billing run in sequence.
Fair wear and tear is deterioration from normal use. Damage is the result of a specific event - an impact, harsh treatment, or neglect. Under the BVRLA Fair Wear and Tear Standard, small marks within published size limits are acceptable; anything beyond them is chargeable. The table below shows the commonly applied limits for cars.
| Area | Generally acceptable | Generally chargeable |
|---|---|---|
| Stone chips | Up to 3mm with no rust; up to four per panel, six per door edge, eight on forward-facing panels | Any chip showing rust, or more than the permitted count |
| Scratches | Surface scratches up to 25mm that don't expose primer or bare metal; up to four per panel | Anything over 25mm, or through to primer or metal |
| Dents | Up to 15mm with the paint surface unbroken; maximum two per panel | Dents on the roof or swage line, broken paint, or larger than 15mm |
| Alloys and wheel trims | Scuffs up to 25mm on the outside edge of the rim or trim | Damage to spokes, hubs or the wheel face; buckles, cracks, dents or holes |
| Tyres | Correct manufacturer specification, even wear, above the 1.6mm legal minimum | Below 1.6mm, uneven wear, sidewall or tread damage, wrong specification |
| Glass | Light scratching that doesn't obstruct the driver's view or affect embedded technology | Chips, cracks or holes; damage in the driver's line of sight; anything that would fail an MOT |
| Lamps and lenses | Minor scuffs or scratches up to 25mm, unit working and watertight | Cracks, holes, water ingress, or a lamp that doesn't work |
| Interior | Light wear consistent with age and mileage; clean and odour-free | Tears, burns, holes in carpets, heavy staining, smoke or pet odours, missing headrests |
Worth knowing: the standard is judged relative to the car's age and mileage. A four-year-old car that has covered 60,000 miles is not held to the same cosmetic standard as an 18-month-old one on 12,000. Our fuller explainer on fair wear and tear under BVRLA standards goes deeper into how that judgement is made.
Repair it yourself if the work is cosmetic, a specialist can do it properly, and their quote is comfortably below what a funder would bill for the same panel. Accept the charge where the damage is trivial, where a repair risks looking worse than the mark, or where a quote comes back close to the likely recharge.
The economics are usually straightforward. A funder assesses damage and recharges at body shop rates for a full panel repair. A mobile smart repair specialist - small to medium area repair technology, the mobile trade that fixes localised paint, bumper scuffs and alloy kerbing - works on a much smaller area, so the cost is normally lower. Get two quotes and compare them with your funder's published damage matrix, which we can request for you.
Where people go wrong is the DIY touch-up pen. A blob of slightly-off colour paint sitting proud of the surface reads as a botched repair, and a botched repair is chargeable even when the original scratch was within limits. Leave it or have it done properly. Nothing in between.
Any professional repair should come with evidence of warranty. Keep the invoice - inspectors accept repaired damage that's been done to a professional standard.
| Scenario | Best move | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Kerbed alloy, scuff over 25mm | Repair - mobile alloy specialist | Common, quick to fix, and charged per wheel by funders |
| Single 20mm surface scratch, paint intact | Leave it | Within the acceptable limit - repairing it creates risk for no benefit |
| Bumper scuff through to primer | Repair - smart repair | Outside the standard, and bumpers are among the cheapest panels to refinish locally |
| Windscreen chip in the driver's view | Repair or replace before collection | It's an MOT failure point, so it can stop the car being collected at all |
| Tyres near the legal limit | Replace with manufacturer-specified tyres | Below 1.6mm is illegal and chargeable, and funder tyre rates are rarely cheap |
| Deep dent across a swage line | Get a quote, then compare | Structural crease repairs are expensive either way - sometimes the recharge is the cheaper route |
Return every key supplied at delivery, including spare and locking wheel nut keys, plus the service record showing stamped services at the manufacturer's intervals, the handbook and any documentation, an in-date MOT certificate if the car is old enough to need one, and all original equipment - parcel shelf, boot floor, charging cables, load cover.
Missing items are the most avoidable charges in the whole process, and they're expensive out of all proportion. A replacement key for a modern car, coded and cut, is not a small bill. Neither is a parcel shelf that went into the loft two years ago.
You won't have it. On a lease, the funder is the registered keeper, so the DVLA V5C logbook stays with them - you're the registered keeper of nothing. What you do need to sort out is anything registered in your name against the car: a Dartford Crossing account, a Clean Air Zone or ULEZ registration, parking permits, a stored toll account. Cancel them once the car has gone, and keep your record of the mileage and condition at handover.
Yes. Perform a factory reset on the infotainment system before collection. Paired phones, contact lists, saved home addresses, dashcam footage and any linked app accounts should all come off the car. Unpair the manufacturer's app from your account too - drivers forget that one constantly, then wonder why they can still see the car's location weeks later.
A driver from an independent collection agent arrives, checks the car's identity and mileage, and either carries out a full appraisal there and then or takes the car away for inspection at the funder's site. You sign a condition report. Be there, read it before you sign, and take your own photographs.
Practical points that make the difference:
If the inspection happens off-site rather than on your driveway, your photographs become considerably more important. Ask which it will be when the collection is booked. For the full sequence from your first end-of-contract letter through to the final invoice, see what happens at the end of a car lease.
Tell the funder in writing straight away and ask them to hold any charge while it's reviewed. Send your dated photographs. If it isn't resolved, you have the right to pay for an independent qualified engineer, agreed by both parties, whose decision binds both sides - and if they find in your favour, a BVRLA member refunds your reasonable costs.
Beyond that, unresolved disputes with a BVRLA member can be referred to the association's alternative dispute resolution service. Our team will handle the back-and-forth with the funder on your behalf; you don't have to fight it alone, and we'd rather you told us early than paid something you didn't owe.
Charges are normally notified within about four weeks of collection. If nothing has arrived after that, chase it rather than assuming you're clear.
By the fortnight before collection, all repairs should be finished and your job is verification, not discovery. Work through this list, then relax. The bulk of the effort - the appraisal and the repairs - happened weeks earlier, which is exactly the point of starting at 10-12 weeks.
If your next car isn't ordered yet, do it now rather than after handback - lead times on a factory order can run to months, and a gap between cars usually means a hire car at your own expense. Our team can check what's in stock and what's on offer while your current lease runs down.
Handing one car back and taking delivery of the next on the same day is the smoothest way to do this, and it's entirely achievable if you start early enough. We'll look at your mileage over the last contract, tell you honestly whether you should adjust the allowance, and find the best value across the whole market rather than pushing you back into the same model.
Call our team on 0333 003 3325 - we're FCA authorised and regulated, a BVRLA member, and we've been arranging leases for over 25 years.
Written by the leasing team at First Vehicle Leasing. We're authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and a member of the BVRLA, and we've been arranging personal and business vehicle leases for UK drivers for over 25 years. Questions about your handback? Call 0333 003 3325.
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