Fast UK Delivery
Over 25 Years In Business

How to Compare Lease Deals and Spot a Good One

The quickest honest test of a lease deal is to divide the car's list price by the monthly rental: above 90 is strong value, 80 to 90 is reasonable, below 80 means keep looking. That only works when you compare deals on the same initial rental, term, mileage and VAT basis. This guide shows you how to run the test, total up the real cost of a contract, and spot the things a headline monthly figure hides.

How to Compare Lease Deals and Spot a Good One
By FVL Editorial Team
22 Min Read
Last updated August 20, 2026

Divide the car's list price by the monthly rental. Above 90 is strong value, 80 to 90 is reasonable, below 80 means keep looking. That single sum tells you more than any headline price - as long as every deal you compare has the same initial rental, term, mileage and VAT basis.

Key Takeaways

  • Divide list price by monthly rental. Above 90 is strong value, 80 up to and including 90 is reasonable, below 80 is poor value.
  • The score is meaningless unless both deals share the same initial rental, term, annual mileage and VAT basis. A 9+35 can only be judged against another 9+35.
  • Always add up the total cost of the contract as well: initial rental, plus every monthly payment, plus any fees.
  • A rental covers the gap between what the car costs to acquire and its forecast value at the end of the term, plus interest charges - not the whole price of the car.
  • Check the broker is FCA authorised and a BVRLA member before you hand over any details, and never pay a fee to "reserve" a deal.

How do I spot a good lease deal?

A good deal is one where you get a lot of car for each pound of monthly rental, on terms that match how you actually drive. The fastest check: divide the car's list price by the monthly rental. Above 90 is strong value, 80 to 90 is reasonable, below 80 is poor.

That's the short answer, and it works because it strips out the thing that confuses everyone - the fact that a £600 rental on a £70,000 car can be a far better deal than a £250 rental on a £22,000 one. The monthly figure on its own tells you almost nothing about value. What you're really asking is: how much car am I getting for my money?

Everything else in this guide is about making sure you're comparing the same thing twice, and about the costs that sit outside the monthly figure. Because that's where most disappointing leases go wrong - not in the price, but in the mileage that was set too low, or the maintenance that wasn't included, or the fee nobody mentioned until the paperwork arrived.

View Deals

The bang-for-buck test: list price divided by rental

Take the car's full list price, divide it by the monthly rental, and you get the number of monthly rentals that fit inside the price of the car. Higher is better. Above 90 is strong value, 80 up to and including 90 is reasonable, below 80 is poor value and worth walking away from.

Assume the standard 9+35 profile throughout - nine months' rental paid upfront as the initial rental, then 35 monthly payments - unless a deal states otherwise.

Score (list price ÷ monthly rental)VerdictWhat to do
Above 90Strong valueWorth pursuing. Check term, mileage and inclusions, then move quickly - the best-priced stock doesn't sit around.
80 up to and including 90ReasonableFair, not exceptional. Shop around the same profile before committing, and check whether a similar car sits above 90.
Below 80Poor valueKeep looking. Either the model isn't being supported with strong terms, or the profile is working against you.

Three worked examples

All figures below are illustrative round numbers, not real offers, and all three assume a 9+35 profile:

Strong value

£30,000 list price, £330 a month. 30,000 ÷ 330 = 90.9. Above 90, so strong value.

Reasonable

£45,000 list price, £520 a month. 45,000 ÷ 520 = 86.5. That lands in the 80 to 90 band - fair, worth comparing further.

Poor value

£28,000 list price, £370 a month. 28,000 ÷ 370 = 75.7. Below 80, so keep looking.

You may have come across the international "1% rule" - the idea that a monthly payment at or below 1% of list price marks a strong deal. It's the same test inverted, so a score of 100 is exactly the 1% rule. It's an informal consumer rule of thumb rather than an industry standard, and it has the same limitation: it only means anything on a like-for-like profile.

One practical note. This is a value test, not a suitability test. A car can score 95 and still be the wrong choice if the mileage allowance is too tight or the boot's too small. Score first, sanity-check second.

Why you must compare like with like

A score only means something against another deal on the same initial rental, term and annual mileage. A 9+35 can only be compared with another 9+35. Set a 9+35 against a 1+35 and the number is worthless - the deal with more money upfront will always look better, because cost has simply been shifted out of the monthly figure.

Here's how obvious that becomes with numbers. Take the same £30,000 car. On a 9+35 at £330 a month, the score is 90.9. On a 1+35 at £405 a month - one month upfront instead of nine - the score is 74.1. Same car, same total cost within a whisker (£14,520 versus £14,580 in this illustration), wildly different score.

Keep the VAT basis consistent too: an ex-VAT rental against an ex-VAT price, or an inc-VAT rental against an inc-VAT price. Mixing the two will flatter a business deal by roughly a fifth and tell you nothing useful.

How do I work out the total cost of a lease?

Add the initial rental to every monthly payment that follows, then add any fees. On a 9+35 at £330 a month, that's £2,970 upfront (9 × £330) plus £11,550 (35 × £330), giving £14,520 - which is simply 44 × £330. Do this for every deal on your shortlist and rank them.

Total cost is the honest sledgehammer. It catches everything the monthly figure hides, including the profiles designed to look cheap. Run it alongside the bang-for-buck score, not instead of it: the score tells you whether the car is well priced, the total tells you what leaves your bank account.

Two things worth watching as you total up:

  • Payment count. A 9+35 has 44 payments in total, not 36. A 1+47 has 48. Miscounting here is the single most common comparison error we see.
  • Term versus cost. A 48-month contract usually shows a lower monthly figure than a 36-month one on the same car, but you're committed for a year longer. Our guide to choosing between 24, 36 and 48 months covers the trade-off properly.
All monetary examples in this guide are illustrative round numbers used to demonstrate the calculations, not quotations, and do not reflect any particular offer or our commercial terms. Personal Contract Hire (PCH) prices include VAT; Business Contract Hire (BCH) prices exclude VAT. All leasing is subject to credit approval and status.

What's included in the price, and what isn't?

A contract hire rental normally covers use of the vehicle, road tax for the term and the manufacturer warranty. It does not usually include servicing, tyres, insurance or excess mileage. Two deals at the same monthly price can differ by hundreds of pounds a year once you account for what each one leaves out.

Check these five things on every quote before you compare anything:

Annual mileage

A deal priced at 5,000 miles a year will always undercut the same car at 15,000. If the allowance doesn't match your driving, the excess mileage charge at the end wipes out the saving. Read how to choose the right annual mileage before you commit.

Maintenance

Some quotes are shown with a maintenance package rolled in, covering servicing and tyres. Comparing a maintained rental with a non-maintained one is not a comparison at all. See whether to add maintenance.

Fees

Ask directly whether there's an admin or documentation fee, and whether delivery is free. A £300 fee on a £14,520 contract moves the needle. Get it in writing before you sign anything.

Spec and trim

Cheap headline deals are often entry-level trim. If one quote has heated seats, adaptive cruise and a bigger screen and the other doesn't, the cheaper score isn't the better car. Our guide to choosing spec and trim explains what's worth paying for.

Availability

An in-stock car can arrive in weeks; a factory order can take months. A slightly better score is no use if you need a car in a fortnight. Compare in-stock against factory order.

Return standards

Under BVRLA fair wear and tear standards, normal deterioration from ordinary use is acceptable, but damage from a specific event is not. Funders vary in how they apply this, so ask which policy your agreement uses.

Why are some lease deals so much cheaper than others?

A rental covers the gap between what the vehicle costs to acquire and its forecast value at the end of the term - its residual value - plus interest charges. Anything that lowers the acquisition cost, or holds up the residual, brings the rental down. That's why two similar cars can price hundreds of pounds apart.

Two mechanisms do most of the work. First, volume: a broker commits to manufacturers in bulk, hundreds of vehicles at a time, and secures terms that an individual - or a business taking one or two cars - can't replicate however hard they haggle. Second, residual values are forecast against the vehicle itself, based on what that car is expected to be worth in three or four years' time, not against what the funder paid for it. So a volume discount comes off the acquisition side while the residual stays where it is.

The practical consequence for you: the strongest value sits where a broker has committed to a large volume of a particular model. Those are the special offers. On an ordinary model that hasn't been bought in depth, the terms still beat what you'd get on your own, but they won't match the offers.

Which leads to the most useful piece of advice in this whole guide, and it's not about arithmetic. Most people no longer need one specific model - they want the best car for the money. Decide what you actually need from a car and what you can spend, then look at what represents the best value inside that box. Fix on one model in one colour first and you're bidding against yourself.

Leasing isn't automatically the cheapest route for everyone, either. If you keep cars for eight or ten years and drive them into the ground, buying can win. Our leasing versus buying comparison sets out both sides.

Red flags: how to spot a dud deal

The clearest warning signs are a price that only exists on a comparison listing, pressure to pay a fee to "secure" a car, a firm you can't find on the Financial Services Register, and vague answers about mileage, term or what's included. Any one of those is reason enough to walk.

So is a suspiciously cheap deal ever genuine?

Sometimes, yes - manufacturer support on a model that isn't selling can produce a genuinely excellent rental, and stock cars that need moving can too. But check the small print before you get excited. In our experience, unusually low headline prices most often turn out to be 5,000 miles a year, a 48-month term, a 12-month initial rental, or an entry trim with none of the kit shown in the photograph. All legitimate, none of them what the reader assumed.

Checks worth two minutes of your time

  • Is the broker on the FCA's Financial Services Register? A credit broker arranging regulated agreements must be authorised.
  • Are they a BVRLA member? The BVRLA Leasing Broker Code of Conduct covers clear pricing and transparent terms, members are audited against it, and the BVRLA is a government-approved consumer ADR body if something goes wrong.
  • Will they name the funder before you sign? You should know who the finance agreement is actually with.
  • Does the quote state term, initial rental, mileage, VAT treatment and fees on one document? If not, ask for one that does.
  • Is the price still valid? Lease pricing moves. A listing that's months old is a starting point, not an offer.

Comparing personal and business deals

Personal Contract Hire (PCH) prices include VAT; Business Contract Hire (BCH) prices exclude it. So a BCH rental will always look cheaper on screen. VAT-registered businesses can typically reclaim 50% of the VAT on a car used privately as well as for business, and often 100% on a van, which changes the maths again.

If you're choosing a company car, the tax treatment usually matters more than the rental. According to HMRC's published company car tax rates, a zero-emission electric car attracts a Benefit in Kind (BIK) rate - the tax charge on a benefit your employer provides - of 4% of P11D list price for the 2026/27 tax year, rising by one percentage point in 2027/28. Petrol and diesel cars scale with CO2 emissions, running from roughly 15% up to a 37% cap, with higher-emission models sitting at the top end of that range.

Comparison pointPersonal (PCH)Business (BCH)
Advertised priceIncludes VATExcludes VAT
VAT recoveryNoneTypically 50% on cars, often 100% on vans, if VAT registered
Company car taxNot applicableBIK applies where there's private use
How to score the dealInc-VAT rental against inc-VAT list priceEx-VAT rental against ex-VAT list price

Because EV company car tax is so low, a salary sacrifice scheme can be the cheapest way for an employee to run a new electric car, and the comparison there is against your net pay rather than a rental. Worth modelling separately if your employer offers one. You can check any specific car with HMRC's company car tax calculator on GOV.UK.

BIK rates stated are HMRC's published rates for the 2026/27 tax year and are set by government, so they change at future fiscal events. This is general information, not tax advice - check your own position with HMRC's calculator or a qualified accountant.

Your deal comparison checklist

Work through these six steps in order and you'll have a defensible answer within half an hour. The first three establish whether a deal is good value; the last three establish whether it's right for you. Skip either half and you're guessing.

  1. Fix your profile first. Decide your term, annual mileage and how much you want to put down, then only look at quotes on that profile. This is what makes every later comparison valid.
  2. Score each deal. List price ÷ monthly rental, same VAT basis on both sides. Above 90 is strong and worth pursuing; 80 up to and including 90 is reasonable, so shop around the same profile before committing; below 80, keep looking.
  3. Total each deal. Initial rental + (monthly rental × number of monthly payments) + fees. Sanity-check that against the score - if a high-scoring deal has a big total, look again at the profile.
  4. Line up the inclusions. Maintenance, delivery, fees, road tax, trim level. Adjust your comparison for anything one deal has and the other doesn't.
  5. Check it fits your life. Mileage, boot space, charging at home, gearbox preference. A brilliant score on the wrong car is still the wrong car.
  6. Verify the supplier. FCA authorised, BVRLA member, funder named, quote in writing, no upfront reservation fee.

And if two deals come out level? Take the one with the shorter term or the more generous mileage. Flexibility is worth more than a few pounds a month, and most people's circumstances change more over three years than they expect.

Want a second opinion on a deal you've found?

Our team has spent over 25 years pricing and arranging leases, and we'll tell you honestly if the deal in front of you is a good one - even when it isn't ours. Run the numbers yourself first, then call us on 0333 003 3325 and we'll go through your shortlist profile by profile.

First Vehicle Leasing is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and is a BVRLA member.

Frequently Asked Questions

Usually only slightly. Paying more upfront reduces the monthly figure, but the total cost of the contract tends to land in a similar place. That's exactly why the bang-for-buck score only works on matching profiles - a bigger initial rental flatters the monthly figure without genuinely improving the deal.

Use the full manufacturer list price (on-the-road price) for the exact model and trim, including factory-fitted options. Using a discounted or negotiated price would double-count the discount and inflate the score. Keep the VAT basis consistent: inc-VAT price with an inc-VAT rental, ex-VAT with ex-VAT.

The maths is identical, but EVs often score well because manufacturer support on electric models has been strong and list prices are high relative to rentals. Judge an EV against another EV on the same profile, and factor in charging costs and, for company cars, the low BIK rate for the 2026/27 tax year.

There's less room than people expect, because pricing comes from the funder's terms and the volume the broker has committed to, not from a salesperson's discretion. The bigger wins come from flexing the profile - a different term, a different mileage, or a different model with stronger support behind it.

Not long, and it varies by funder and vehicle. Rates, manufacturer support and residual value forecasts all move, so a price you saw weeks ago may no longer exist. Always ask for a current written quote showing term, mileage, initial rental, VAT treatment and any fees before you decide.

Sources

  1. Financial Services Register - Financial Conduct Authority
  2. Leasing Broker Code of Conduct - British Vehicle Rental and Leasing Association
  3. Calculate tax on company cars - GOV.UK / HMRC

Written by the leasing team at First Vehicle Leasing, an FCA-authorised credit broker and BVRLA member with over 25 years arranging personal and business vehicle leases across the UK. Our guides are reviewed and updated as rates, tax rules and industry standards change.

Will I be approved?

Five questions, no sign-up, and an honest answer before you apply for anything.

Check my eligibility

Speak to our team

Prefer to just ask someone? That's usually quicker.

0333 003 3325

Contact us

Ready to drive into
your next adventure?

Lease your dream car today with ease, confidence, and unbeatable value.

How leasing works

© 2026 First Vehicle Leasing. All Rights Reserved.